Driving a company forward is not just an inspiration for a flash of light, but continuous efforts, down-to-earth persistence and persistence. It takes 23 years to get listed, is it fast? Not happy; listing is to repair a building, strange? Very strange.
What is rare is that Jiang Lin’s rudder Li Lin is very straightforward. She seems to be more suitable for appearing in fashion magazines, or in character magazines. “The first piece of clothing I designed was because I liked it, but I couldn’t buy it in the store,†she said with repeated feelings. “It’s just a little Taobao shop.†It looks like she’s away. The art is very close and it is a bit far from the business.
When it comes to what it is, the whole world is the “integration industryâ€, “subversive innovationâ€, “changing your lifestyle†and even “changing the world†chicken soup and chicken blood. Jiangnan cloth has no slogan and fanfare marketing, no extra fancy, Walk every step steadily.
In March 2017, Jiangnan Cloth announced the first semi-annual report after listing: In the second half of 2016, 1,498 stores realized operating income of 1.31 billion yuan and net profit of 227 million yuan, an increase of 24% compared with the same period of the previous year.
Of course, luck is also important. But putting a designer brand on the market and becoming the first Hong Kong-listed designer brand in China is precisely because Li Lin has incorporated this waywardness into the company's genes.
It is easy to be unconventional, and it is difficult to balance stylization and commercialization.
Accurately speaking, the women's brand "Jiangnan Cloth" is now called "JNBY". Jiangnan Cloth has become the name of the group company.
Five years ago, investors visited JNBY and did an experiment to find out how many people “recognize†the brand. They went to a mall, bought dozens of clothes in several women's clothing stores on the same floor, and then found many customers in the mall, so that customers could match the clothes and brands without seeing the trademark.
JNBY's clothing match is the highest.
Third-party data CIC's statistics confirm this result. In the Chinese women's designer brand awareness consumer survey, 35.5% of respondents believe that JNBY is the most unique and most recognizable brand. It ranks first in the Chinese designer brand fashion industry with a market share of 9.6%.
In most of the Chinese clothing companies still do not know what is the design of the 1990s, JNBY has won the love of this group of consumers by embroidering a few small flowers on cotton and linen fabrics. With the evolution of the times, the style of Jiangnan has faded, and the design style of JNBY has become more simple and clear. The visual effect of falling onto the garment is that the color is very small, mainly in the white, black gray, brown and other solid colors; the lines of the clothes are simple and smooth, the details are refined, and there is a hint of vagueness in the shape.
Not only that, JNBY's design emphasizes the rich and random collocation between the individual products, leaving consumers with a new space and further highlighting the personality.
In terms of materials, Li Lin likes to use pure natural fabrics of different textures and styles, such as cotton, hemp, wool, silk and so on. Even the dyes prefer natural, not only because it is about the color of the clothes, but also because the natural dyes are more friendly to people and the environment.
Unique style and high quality JNBY, the price is positioned at the middle and high end. For example, the price of a new spring jacket is around 1,500 yuan, which is the acceptance range of its target consumer group.
Even in the era when Chinese designer brands were surging, JNBY was uniquely separated from MO&CO's modern French and exceptional Oriental flavors.
Curiously peeping out, first smashed the people in the house before striding in. Li Lin rarely accepts media interviews. She sits in front of the reporter, wearing black-rimmed glasses, short hair, laughing like a real child, not a boss.
Li Lin has always been the core of JNBY's designers. In fact, she is more like an artist, saying that she “has rarely managed thingsâ€.
Therefore, the extremely vivid stylization is still widely accepted by the public for commercialization. In other words, Li Linhua is still not Li Linhua. This is a problem for JNBY.
Twenty-three years ago, Li Lin, who graduated from the Chemistry Department of Zhejiang University, took over a clothing store outside the Medical College of Zhejiang University from others, named Jiangnan Cloth, and took the meaning of a cloth. When she first designed the clothing, she was almost zero-based. The breakthrough is also very simple, from colored flowers, colored cotton to embroidered, all work on the pattern.
In the early 1990s, it was the initial stage of the upgrading of China's garment industry. Hangzhou, which has developed textile industry and strong cultural atmosphere, has naturally become a highland of transformation. There have been many brands such as Jiangnan Cloth, Qianbaihui, Gloria and Yixiang Liying. They are collectively referred to as Hangpai Women's Wear.
The success of Jiangnan Cloth is, to a certain extent, catching up with the popularity of Hangpai women's clothing. But upgrading from Jiangnan Cloth to JNBY relies on Li Lin's ultimate pursuit of the brand's core.
So what is the tonality of Jiangnan cloth?
In the early years of Jiangnan Cloth, in the brand image, such as a delicate makeup woman, wearing a green shirt, holding a paper umbrella. Although unique, the labeling of the area is too obvious. In 2001, Li Lin changed the name of the women's wear brand from “Jiangnan Cloth†to “JNBYâ€, meaning Just Natural Be Yourself (Nature, Self). Later, she defined the "J" in JNBY as Joyful, emphasizing the fun of design.
A detail is enough to prove Li Lin's insistence on the brand's core: There have been some dealers who want to add a single-selling old item, and the list was finally stuck in Li Lin – she prefers that the pants are not popular yet. Then hang them on the clothes rail.
It's like a seesaw. The designer's philosophy, the brand's genes are important, and profits are equally important. Together they determine how far you can go. And obviously, this balance JNBY is well mastered.
In order to make the brand's genes naturally continue and be consistent, Li Lin put the key training targets on the graduates when forming the designer team. However, she "sometimes wants not to add personal attention to the team." For example, JNBY is becoming younger and begins to pay more attention to customers aged 25-30. “Every season, 15% of the 600 items will be bolder,†and began to use fabrics other than cotton and linen.
In fact, JNBY did not miss any commercial slogan. When WeChat became an important port for more and more enterprises to connect with users, Li Lin focused on creating the JNBY service number. Its content revolves around clothing, travel, photography, food, architecture, etc., mainly based on pictures, such as the same avant-garde fashion magazine, or a content e-commerce: through the content to firmly adhere to users with consistent values, and finally promote online or Offline transactions.
According to the second half of 2016, JNBY has more than 1.1 million WeChat fans, ranking first in domestic women's wear. These fans contributed sales to the brand up to 63.6% of JNBY's total sales.
Layers of green water, swaying awning boats, Hangzhou Xixi Wetland is like a typical Chinese picture. However, the green water flows out of Xixi only a few hundred meters, and the style of painting is abrupt. A group of modern buildings with unique shapes are starting to rise. On the scaffolding, it is a busy Italian worker.
In order to build an "imaginative" office building for the company, Li Lin invited the "Nobel Prize in Architecture" Pritzker Prize winner Renzo Piano - this is the first Piano in China. Construction project. Even more, more than 100 construction workers have been "airborne" from Italy.
As for the listing, "it is the need to build a building."
Li Lin said that as long as the taste is enough, "Capital will not destroy you." Jiangnan Buyi Art Center is sponsoring a young artist project called “Imagination Mechanics Labâ€. The new building is planned for the artist's work space. All of this blends with the lifestyles advocated by the brand, and subtly influences consumers in place of advertising.
Designer brands have their inherent insufficiency - niche markets, ceilings are too low. In order to become bigger and stronger, some have dispelled their individuality and moved toward popularization. However, with the strong DNA of JNBY, Li Lin is promoting the fission and proliferation of Jiangnan clothing cells.
Since 2003, Jiangnan Cloth has successively developed high-end women's wear, men's wear CROQUIS, children's wear brand jnby by JNBY and youth brand Pompe de terre. In 2017, Jiangnan Cloth launched the home brand JNBY HOME and the furniture brand public opinion collection.
In Li Lin's view, Jiangnan Cloth has a solid fan base among young intellectual women. Through their driving, it can trigger family-related purchases of family members at different ages, such as children and spouses.
In order to make customers who recognize the lifestyle and design concept of Jiangnan Cloth truly form a buying ecosystem, the sub-brands of Jiangnan Cloth are different, but they are all exaggerated from the main brand of “Nature, Self, and Interestâ€. .
Taking the men's wear sketch CROQUIS established in 2005 as an example, Li Lin described its personality as “contemporary, textured, playful and elegantâ€.
Based on this style, CROQUIS has locked in urban men around 25-35 years old. The product development and design are no longer limited to the conventional fabric category, in order to break the classic, retaining and male lines, reflecting nature and wearability.
After more than 10 years of cultivation, the sales in the second half of 2016 reached 270 million yuan, a 34% year-on-year increase, contributing more than 20% to the Group's total sales.
Another example is the jnby by JNBY children's wear series launched in 2011. Li Lin’s original idea was very simple. He thought that “it’s good to look at Jiangnan’s ready-to-wear garments for young children.†So he mixed in children’s clothing sales in more than 100 stores with annual sales of more than 5 million yuan.
“Children wear our clothes and walk on the street, and they are recognized by adults.†A brand manager of Jiangnan Cloth said, “At that time, the children’s wear brand under Jiangnan Cloth has not even started to promote.â€
Young parents are shifting from the pursuit of functional children's wear to fashion and personalization. Coupled with the relaxation of the second child policy, the children's wear market is showing unlimited potential. Later jnby by JNBY operated independently. In the second half of 2016, Jiangnan Cloth's children's wear department's revenue rose by about 60%, far exceeding the growth rate of men's and women's wear.
Breaking through the ceiling, in addition to extending the taste to various fields, Jiangnan Cloth will also target overseas. In 2005, Jiangnan Cloth established its first overseas store in Moscow. Since then, there have been stores in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Singapore, Canada, Bangkok, Georgia, Barcelona, ​​Spain, Seoul, South Korea and New York.
The waywardness, such as Li Lin, is also no secret. Choosing to list in Hong Kong stocks is precisely because of the internationalization of Hong Kong's capital market, and will deepen its operation in overseas markets in the future.
Gorgeous robes don't have to be covered with scorpions. But the clothing brand that is unique again has a headache of supply chain management. Since July 2015, Li Lin has outsourced all production to OEM suppliers and concentrated resources on key aspects of the product life cycle, such as product planning and design, branding, management, retail and distribution network supervision. .
Among them, the barriers between the channels are the most important. In the expansion of many enterprises, each additional channel needs to add a complete team, and often people, money and things are separated from each other. For example, when Jiangnan Buyi developed e-commerce, Tmall launched multiple brands to open a number of stores, and arranged customer service for each store to arrange logistics for each brand. Soon after, the e-commerce business team was rapidly expanding and the burden was getting heavier.
To this end, Li Lin carried out the construction of three major IT projects:
The first is to sort out the company's independent IT systems in the past, using OA (automated office system) to put all the systems and processes through, all accounts are connected through OA;
Secondly, it has developed a large number of services in the service number and enterprise number of Jiangnan Cloth's official WeChat, providing services to more than one million members of Jiangnan Cloth to improve the customer experience;
The third is the omni-channel project of goods, that is, opening stores in a number of different channels, through a unified certification center, dispatch center, settlement center and credit center, all orders are processed centrally, and then according to the needs of customers, in the nearest The store delivers the goods to the customer.
In Jiangnan Cloth, the omni-channel project is called “Inner Taobaoâ€. Because this is an in-house information platform built on the rules of Taobao.
For example, for many stores in Tmall, Jiangnan Cloth will handle all orders in a centralized manner. The e-commerce service system does not distinguish between brands and only distinguishes market players. The corresponding order management system can increase the number of customer service personnel according to the business volume.
In terms of goods, Jiangnan Cloth has also been integrated. Because the business expansion in Dangdang, Jingdong, Juyi and other e-commerce channels is very fast, resulting in insufficient sales. While the Group's logistics inventory is sufficient, Jiangnan Cloth is virtually integrated through the position, enabling e-commerce to get goods from the group logistics, while weakening the previous rushing thinking of various business units. Later, Jiangnan Cloth covered the virtual cargo mode to the direct store, and now it has begun to reversely repurchase dealer inventory.
For example, during the double 11 period, the demand for online goods is very large. At this time, the dealer inventory is repurchased, directly locked in the system, connected to Tmall, and the dealer is dispatched by self-service.
This will save logistics costs, customers can get the goods in the shortest time, the experience is very good, the dealers also welcome, the pressure of the logistics center is also reduced accordingly. According to estimates, in the second half of 2016, the inventory sharing and distribution system brought the incremental retail sales of Jiangnan Cloth to 228 million yuan.
If the weight is light, it is qualified to be true. To the brand to the core, to the management to benefit, to drive a company forward, is never just a flash of inspiration.
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